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Matt Morelli

Argegno, Italy: 7 Reasons Why We Love This Village on Lake Como

When trying to decide where to stay on Lake Como in northern Italy’s Lombardy region, most people end up shortlisting the same four towns & villages; Como, Menaggio, Bellagio and Varenna. In this post, we’d like to introduce a fifth option for you to consider – the peaceful & idyllic village of Argegno.

Argegno (pronounced ar-GEE-nioh) may not have the glitz and glamour of its larger, more popular neighbours, but it makes up for it with plenty of Italian authenticity, fewer crowds and a tranquil & welcoming atmosphere.

If you’re feeling inspired after reading this post, we’ve included lots of helpful information on how you can plan your trip to Argegno at the bottom of this post.

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7 reasons why you’ll love Argegno

We’ve collated ten reasons why we think Argegno is worthy of your consideration. If you’re open to the idea of staying somewhere a little quieter and quainter than Lake Como’s big four tourist destinations, read on.

Argegno is Super Cute

Argegno is a small village that is home to around 650 permanent inhabitants and boasts only a handful of amenities (as you’ll see as we delve further into this post). Since the village is penned into a small area of land between two mountains to the West and Lake Como to the East, there’s not a great deal of room for expansion. Newcomers have come along and built new homes on the upper slopes, but thankfully the new builds are out of sight and haven’t affected Argegno’s irresistible ancient charm.

To get a flavour of Argegno’s ‘super cute’ status, we recommend an exploration of the narrow cobbled alleyways leading off of the village’s central square, Piazza Roma. Head towards the orange building at the top of the square with ‘panificio’ (bakery) written on its awning and turn left. Then just keep walking to see what you can find.

To take in ALL of Argegno’s cuteness at once (or at least most of it), there are two options. The first is to take the cable car to Pigra (see further on for more details). The views of Argegno and the surrounding area from the gondola are fabulous.

Another great view of the village can be enjoyed from the pedestrian bridge crossing the stream between the Marina and Via Lungo Telo di Sinistra. This spot is particular good for selfies.

Argegno Feels Authentically Italian

Lake Como’s ‘mid-lake’ towns of Varenna, Menaggio and Bellagio are very popular with tourists, offering lots of options for shopping, restaurants, accommodation and things to do. Their popularity means they can get rather busy, particularly in the peak Summer season.

Argegno doesn’t have a long list of amenities at its disposal and therefore isn’t as well known. Since there are fewer crowds and fewer businesses specifically targeting tourists, Argegno feels much more authentically Italian than it’s busier cousins. While by day, the village might see some visitors, particularly those who are keen on taking the cable car up to Pigra, by the evening the tourists have left and the village returns to its naturally tranquil state.

Like most of the towns and villages on the edge of Lake Como, Argegno is served by fairly regular buses and passenger ferries.

Busses

ASF Autolinee operates busses between Como and Menaggio that call at Argegno. Services are not as frequent as they should be and are therefore very busy, but it is better than no service at all. If you’re keen on visiting nearby Villa Carlotta, the bus will be able to take you there from Argegno in around 15-20 minutes.

Similarly to many parts of Italy, buying bus tickets can be a bit of nuisance. Occasionally, we found it was possible to buy a ticket on board the bus, but typically, you’re advised to buy before you board.

In Argegno, bus tickets can be purchased from Bar Mota on Piazza Testi.

Ferries

Gestione Navigazione Laghi operates ferries across Lake Como and some of them (a mixture of slow and fast services) call at Argegno. Similarly to the buses, services are a bit hit and miss, so study those timetables carefully.

Tickets can be purchased from ticket offices that can normally be found alongside the jetty. Ticket offices in smaller towns and villages are only open a short time before a departure, so don’t panic if you find an office is closed. Just wait by the window and someone should come along to help you.

Go with the flow

Since busses and ferries to/from Argegno are fairly infrequent compared to other larger towns, we often needed to transfer between busses and ferries to get to our intended destination. Ensure you make a note of departure times and, in particular, the time of the final departure of the day and you’ll be fine.

Our advice would be to take as relaxed an approach to Italian public transport as the Italians do and allow for delays and long waits. Just go with the flow and take any delay as an opportunity to soak in your surroundings.

Catch the Cable Car to Pigra

Despite all of the mountains surrounding it, Lake Como is home to only a handful of cable cars. This is a shame. We love cable cars!

Thankfully, Argegno is the base station to a cable car system, taking passengers 540 metres up to the tiny & scenic village of Pigra. A return ticket costs €3.90 and the journey takes just five minutes.

Not only do you have to be okay with heights on the Pigra cable car, but you also have to be okay with enclosed spaces. The gondola fits only 12 people inside and even then, it’s at a squeeze. Don’t be discouraged however, as the views are so ridiculously gorgeous and the journey is so quick, you won’t have much time to panic.

Upon arrival in Pigra, most visitors spend the first 15 minutes taking in the stunning views of Lake Como below from the cable car station. They then follow the signs to ‘belvedere’, or ‘viewpoint’ in Italian. The viewpoint provides more fantastic views, though they are somewhat obscured by pylon lines, so don’t expect amazing photos. The walk through shady woodland is lovely though, particularly if it’s a hot, sunny day.

The rustic centre of Pigra is deserted. Follow the signposted guided walk to explore
The rustic centre of Pigra is deserted. Follow the signposted guided walk to explore

After filling your camera’s memory card with breathtaking shots, there’s only really two other things to do in Pigra. The first is to get a drink and perhaps something to eat from one of the few restaurants in the village. We found a nice, modern restaurant tucked away alongside a small sports field on Via Santa Margherita. We were warmly welcomed and upon informing the owner we were vegetarian, he made us a tasty mixed salad with fresh bread.

The second thing to do in Pigra to explore the historic centre of the village. Helpfully, the local Friends of the Council Association have set up a sign-posted walking route around the village, taking in all of the major points of interest. You can find out more and see the map on their website. Jade and I really enjoyed exploring the peaceful cobbled alleyways and rustic architecture.

Gazing out over the sparkling waters of Lake Como in Argegno, Italy
Gazing out over the sparkling waters of Lake Como in Argegno, Italy

This Pretty Lakeside Cafe

Jade and I visited Il Porto for pastries and cappuccino on our final morning in Argegno.

Having ordered, we found a table underneath a canopy of foliage and overlooking Lake Como. The hazy morning sunshine made the clear water sparkle and clouded the adjacent mountain peaks. We both found it hard to leave.

Argegno’s Lido (white building on right) is said to have been built without planning permission.
Argegno’s Lido (white building on right) is said to have been built without planning permission.

Argegno’s Controversial Lido

You wouldn’t think something as innocuous as a Lido would be the cause of fierce consternation within a local community. In Argegno however, the local swimming pool is a controversial topic.

The locals we spoke to told us that Lido di Argegno was developed without planning permission and was therefore operating outside the law. This, together with concerns that the Lido’s minimalist architecture was out of place with the existing style in the village had put some noses out of joint.

It appeared the dispute had peaked during our visit. The gates were firmly locked all week and a notice from the local authorities indicated that they had stepped in to try and find a resolution.

Since our visit, it does appear the the Lido is open again, though only during warmer months. The pool is small (and apparently unheated), but there is an on-site bar and a pontoon that leads into the lake itself. Online reviews are largely positive, so it might be worth checking out.

Swim in Lake Como for Free!

If you’re keen to splash about but you’re not willing to pay for the privilege, there are ways of getting into the lake itself for free. Look for some stone steps leading from the walls of the stream opposite the marina and then walk along the shingle towards the mouth of the stream.

If you do take a dip in the lake, take great care. There’s no life guards, so you go for a dip at your own risk. Also bear in mind, the lake is made up of glacial meltwater, so it’s pretty chilly (or ‘refreshing’ depending on your point of view) even in the Summer.

Fresh, locally-grown produce at Argegno’s weekly food market
Fresh, locally-grown produce at Argegno’s weekly food market

Fresh Local Produce from this Market

A travelling fresh food market visits Argegno every Monday and offers locals and visitors a way to avoid the trouble of getting fresh produce from neighbouring communities. The produce we saw was notable in its size and quality. The aubergine (egg plant) and onions were enormous and seemed to be reasonably priced too.

Plan & Book your visit to Argegno

In this section, we’ll go through how you can plan and book your visit to Argegno.

Trains to Argegno

There are no direct trains to Argegno. The nearest train station is in Como which has southbound services to/from Milan and northbound services across the Swiss border. We travelled by train from Milan to Como and from there, caught the local bus to Argegno (see below).

Trains are operated by Trenord and run frequently between Milan Centrale station and Como San Giovanni station throughout the day. Tickets are cheap and journey time is just 38 minutes. Trains are mostly clean, modern, air-conditioned and safe.

You can also catch train services to Como from other stations in Milan.

You can buy tickets right before travel from vending machines (in multiple languages) or from ticket office windows. Alternatively, you can save yourself any potential stress by buying mobile tickets in advance using Trainline.

Flights to Argegno

Milan is the nearest major city with international airports. We flew in from London to Orio al Serio International Airport (often called Milan Bergamo Airport due to its proximity to the town of Bergamo).

Transfers from the airport

Three bus companies run direct non-stop services from Milan Bergamo Airport to Milan Centrale railway station. They are TerravisionOrioshuttle & Autostradale. Each company is highly rated, run modern air-conditioned coaches and cost just €5 per person each way. You can buy tickets from the ticket office windows in the arrivals area of the airport.

If you can’t decide which company to travel with, we have a great tip for you. Above the ticket windows is a screen displaying all of the forthcoming departures for each of the three bus companies. If you’re ready to leave, simply travel with the company running the next departure. We were going to travel with Terravision since we’re more familiar with their brand, but ended up travelling with Autostradale since they were departing from the airport first.

Buses to Argegno

ASF Autolinee operates buses between Como and Menaggio that call at Argegno. Services depart Como Stazione Autolinee adjacent to Como Nord railway station every 30 minutes throughout the day and journey time is around 40 minutes.

Buses can be very busy, particularly during peak season, so expect to stand the entire journey. If you get a seat, count yourself lucky.

Tickets can be purchased from the ticket office right before you travel. Particularly during peak season, the bus station can be a bit chaotic. Try not to get too stressed out and keep reminding yourself that getting to Argegno is completely worth the hassle.

Taking public transport is a Responsible Travel Choice, as sharing your journey with others is much better for the environment than taking journeys by car.

Getting around Argegno

Argegno is tiny, so it can be explored on foot very easily. For onward excursions, buses and boats serve the village very nicely, though do study those timetables as services, particularly boat services, can be sporadic even during the peak season.

Those with limited mobility may find the cobbles and steep hills challenging.

Argegno is Your Best Bet

In this post, I’ve presented our reasons why Argegno should be on your shortlist when trying to decide where to stay on Lake Como. While the ‘mid-lake’ towns might offer you lots of tourist-friendly hotels, restaurants and attractions, if you’d rather get a peaceful dose of authentic Italian village life, we think Argegno is your best bet.

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